All of Michael Michaud's wines come from Monterey, but the address in the press kit directs you to a tree-lined neighborhood in toney Woodside, quite a ways north on the San Francisco Peninsula. As we made our last turn, a friend and I spotted former 49er coach Bill Walsh whizzing by in a Porsche. No vineyards in sight.

Turns out this is where Michael and his wife and son live, splitting the difference between the vineyard he tends high above the Salinas Valley and her job with a major wine distributor in San Francisco. "This isn't the rich part of Woodside," he says, "just the barely

affordable part." (He notes, however, that his son does go to school with the kids of three Silicon Valley billionaires.)

The wines are made in Los Gatos, in space rented from another winery in what used to be the old Novitiate winery complex. But the heart of the operation, the soul of the wines, and a lot of Michael Michaud's blood, sweat and tears for the last 25 years can all be found in the austere, rocky solitude of Chalone Peak in the Pinnacles mountains. "It's the crown jewel of vineyard sites in Monterey," he says.

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