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subterranean cellars is . . .

. . . more a state of mental intoxication than a winery . . .

. . . a font of award-winning wines, specializing in Rhone reds (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Cinsault) and aromatic whites (Muscat, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier), though we will do up a batch of darn near anything if we have good grapes . . .

. . . not about to make no stinking Merlot . . .

. . . a good way for Blind Muscat Patterson, the winemaker, to keep Tim Patterson, the wine writer, humble and honest, through the life-changing experience of trial and error . . .

. . . the scene of many riotous driveway crushes and bottling parties . . .

. . . living proof of the slogan, "will work for wine" . . .

. . . a hobby grown out of control—and in that sense, finally, a typical obsessive guy thing . . . though it tastes and smells a whole lot better than guns or cars . . .

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